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[September 7, 2008 ]
Growing up between L.A. and Costa Rica, fashion photographer Irene Pena
contrasts surreal subjects in ethereal landscapes. Describing herself as "in
some things, very Latin, and in others, very American," Pena gives her work
the diversity of two cultural experiences.
A graduate of photography from Santa Monica College in California, Pena
still works in traditional formats to create her images. Using her toy
cameras (Holgas), Pena mastered the camera's unique light filtering quality
placing her subjects in otherworldly perspectives. The energetic
photographer seeks unusual models and locations to complete her vision for
capturing the mysterious and contrasting the ugly and beautiful.
Living in Costa Rica, and represented in both the U.S. and Costa Rica, Pena
is still juggling two diverse locations and cultures. Working on her
Codigovestimenta series for a show opening in Costa Rica on Sept. 17, Pena
talks more about her beginnings, current aesthetics, and projects.
What have your experiences been in the fashion industry?
My first assignments were done in L.A. There was one assignment where I had
to shoot about eight changes in one afternoon. I absolutely loved it. It was
a catalog for an up-and-coming fashion designers line that included pieces
by well know L.A. designers Louis Verdad and Nikolaki.
I loved that the client gave me a lot of freedom to decide how to shoot the
images. They allowed me to completely use my style. The final images were
artistic, but they showed the clothes really well. I love being in a fashion
setting. It is always inspiring to see the clothes, the make-up, and the
models.
What can be a bit difficult is dealing with a team of people, who sometimes
clash with personalities or egos. It can become a bit dramatic. While I
don´t love drama, I love intensity. I love intensity in all experiences. I
feel that´s why I love fashion, because you can create these fantasy
settings where beauty, movement, color and light are intense.
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Who has influenced you in the fashion industry?
I would say fashion photographer Peter Lindbergh. I've loved his work since
I first saw it. Also, L.A. hairstylist Barbara James, with whom I did my
first fashion shoots. She showed me fashion and who were the current famous
models and designers. Through her, I defined my aesthetics and a deeper
value of my Latin heritage and Costa Rica, which are reflected in my work by
combining these Latin American elements.
To this day Peter Lindbergh inspires me, as well as different artists, like
Francis Bacon, Caravaggio, Mark Rothko, Egon Schiele, Thomas Struth. I am
constantly studying and learning about Contemporary Art.
What is the most bizarre technique you use in getting your images?
I guess people find it interesting that the bulk of my work is created with
my toy cameras (Holgas). For the last seven years, I have worked in
developing a particular style through these cameras. I love the freedom and
spontaneity that they offer to me. These cameras allow me to immediately
capture an image, without being too worried about any technical concerns.
What has been your most difficult challenge with equipment and subjects?
When I shoot personal projects here in Costa Rica, I am my own producer,
location and talent scout. Even though I know that the final result is
absolutely worth it, the job of taking care of organizing every aspect of my
shoot can sometimes be tiring.
As a photographer, who gave you instruction for your basic modus operandi?
From 1986 through 1989, I attended the University of Costa Rica. My biggest
influence was my first photography instructor, Victoria Cabezas. She is a
well known Costa Rican photographer and artist.
She was such a passionate instructor and photographer, and she transmitted
that to me. She was disciplined and demanded the best from her students. She
was tough, but her classes made a huge difference in my photography. Cabezas
not only helped me to be as passionate about photography, but taught me to
be very demanding towards the images that I created and to always do the
best that I can, to be a perfectionist with my work.
Santa Monica College photo instructor Larry Jones, who is also an amazing
and demanding instructor, was also very influential.
Your work is described as photographing the ugly and the beautiful. What
about this contrast inspires you?
I love to shoot models with different and interesting faces. I'm inspired by
models that really stand out in a crowd with interesting facial structures
and features. Faces like Spanish actress Rossy de Palma, American actor
Adrian Brody, or my all time favorite model, Linda Evangelista. They have
beautiful faces. I love their noses. They are so special looking, so unique.
Your work is described as mysterious. What aspect of your work would you
attribute this description to?
It's related to not only the models, but also the locations that I select
for my work. I'm attracted by images of people and places, where you want to
go inside the picture and to see everything close up.
What is your process in photographing a subject?
I always establish a concept. The process sometimes takes weeks. I carefully
design the shoot, look for locations, clothes, and models that will fit the
concept. For the images for the upcoming show, I started searching and
shooting locations last December and the early part of this year. Then based
on the locations, I worked with the fashion designers to select clothes. For
a couple of weeks, I conducted interviews to find three female models and a
really talented make-up and hair person to fit the project's concept. We
finally started shooting in July after the clothes were designed and
finished. I also had to wait for the right lighting and the weather to
change; it had been very rainy for several weeks. Finally, it all fell into
place, and we created some really beautiful images.
What equipment is your favorite to use?
I shoot with analog cameras. I love my Pentax 67 camera and my Holgas.
How are you different from other photographers in your process?
I haven't gone digital, yet. I still shoot 120 film. All my work,
specifically the multiple exposures, is done in camera. I really don't use
Photoshop. I feel this has to do with the way I learned photography. I still
feel that the perfect image has to be shot, not created in a computer.
Nevertheless, I do want to learn Photoshop and get a great digital camera. I
understand the value of this technology, and it's benefits.
What is the art scene like in Costa Rica?
There is a very interesting and active art scene in Costa Rica. We have
several galleries that show the work of very talented contemporary Costa
Rican and Latin American artists. In Costa Rica, I´ve had several individual
and group shows since 2003.
How do you work in Costa Rica? Do you get assignments from other places?
I am currently represented by Store 44 Reps in Scottsdale, Ariz. I would
prefer to do assignments from U.S. clients, or clients from other countries,
for better funding. I think that Costa Rica is an amazing location to shoot
in because there are so many places to go to. It would be great to find a
U.S. client interested in coming down here to shoot.
Do you have any upcoming shows?
I am working on a show that opens Sept. 17, 2008. It's conceptual fashion
photography. It's the continuation of my Codigovestimenta series, which is
currently part of my portfolio.
Are you showing in any galleries?
Currently, my work can be seen through Galeria Amon in Costa Rica (
www.galeriaamon.net). I also show with Geras Tousignant Gallery in SanFrancisco, Calif. (www.gtfineart.com).
Contributed by Renee Targos
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